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2020 Godello Sobre Lias, Bodegas Madai – The Superb Spanish White That Outgunned The Big Guns

2020 Godello Sobre Lias, Bodegas Madai, Bierzo, Spain

 “Complex palate, bursting with kumquats, passion fruit, honey, cream – multi-layered. Long and expressive.” Sarah Jane Evans MW, Decanter Magazine

“Full and intense ripe lemon and white fruit. Full of life and energy.” David Williams, Decanter Magazine

A wine of such intensity of texture and concentrated flavour that it’s astounding it can be under £20 a bottle.” Jonny Wren, Songbird Wines

Last summer Decanter Magazine held a tasting of Godello from the 2020 vintage that featured wine from many of the ‘big gun’ producers in the northwest of Spain, including Rafa Palacios, Raúl Peréz and Telmo Rodriguez. The winner with 96 points was, unsurprisingly, Rafa Palacios’ 2020 Sorte O Soro, a wine that retails at £330 per bottle (if you can find it). However, in second place with 95 points, was Bodegas Madai’s Godello Sobre Lias which, at the time, was unavailable in the UK but I knew the producer and had a strong inkling it would be a fraction of the price of the winner. Well, it turns out not only is it is remarkably cheaper than Sorte O Soro, but also there is a small parcel available to some of you loyal ‘vintellectuals’.

Songbird Wines and a handful of other independent merchants have shipped over the remaining stock of the 2020 vintage of this superb wine and we have only 20 cases available at the price of £115 per case (£19.16 per bottle), that’s £311 PER BOTTLE CHEAPER than the winner that scored one point higher!

Bodegas Madai was established a few years ago when brothers Daniel and Gonzalo Amigo decided to recover their grandparents’ vineyard in Bierzo. Whilst doing so they discovered plots of Godello vines that have turned out to be some of the oldest in Bierzo (over 100 years old). With a mixture of granite and slate soils, these low yielding, gnarly old vines create fruit of amazing concentration and complexity whilst being farmed with no chemicals and minimum intervention. This hands-off approach continues in the winery where natural fermentation occurs, and their wines are aged in stainless steel or neutral oak. The Sobre Lias is aged for eight months in the former.

2020 Godello Sobre Lias, Bodegas Madai @ £115 per case – last few bottles only

This magnificent Godello initially exhibits a poised elegance but leaves no doubt of its class and pedigree. There’s hints of waxed lemon, green apple and herbs on the nose but it’s when it hits the palate that it truly makes its presence be known. This is a wine of such intensity of texture and concentrated flavour that it’s astounding it can be under £20 a bottle as it tastes better than many at twice its price. The gorgeous citrus fruit flavours are gently enhanced with touches of honey and lovely, fresh minerality. Will future vintages be this good? Who knows but snap up this 2020 whilst you can as there were only 5,000 bottles made.” Jonny Wren, Songbird Wines

Exciting News!

We have more wines from this fantastic Domaine on their way, including the quite stunning 2021 Atlantic Godello – join the Songbird Wines Mailing list for more info.


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